Modifying the Turnigy 80-100 Brushless Outrunner – Part 3

Continuing on: Modifying the Turnigy 80-100 Brushless Outrunner – Part 2

As I’ve written before I had problems getting the Turnigy motor to run in sensored mode using the modified cheap-o eBay controller. Just to se if It’s the controller that is the problem I’ve tried the motor with my e-bike controller.


It works perfect! Turns slow and have lots of starting torque. I didn’t try more than 15%-20% throttle and the battery was empty in my current meter so I could’t measure the current. I will try full throttle and measure the current as soon as I’ve got a new battery.

The motor looks much neater with the internal sensors than the external I think I’ll paint it black to match the black moped when I’ve epoxied the stator and not going to take it apart again.

Turnigy 80-100 with internal sensors
The motor looks much better with the sensors mounted internally

Compared to the externally mounted sensors

Sensors mounted in bracket
Sensors mounted in bracket

13 thoughts on “Modifying the Turnigy 80-100 Brushless Outrunner – Part 3”

  1. Hay LHelge.
    I have a Turnigy C80-100-130kv motor and needs sencors to work with my Mamba Max Pro controller to eliminate cogging. Can you please supply me with info on what sensors to use and where to install them and the wireing diagram too if possible.
    Thanks man.

    1. I use the Honeywell SS411A sensor, I think this sensor comes in both unipolar and bipolar configuration, make sure you get the bipolar. I have 3 sensors, mounted 120° apart in the stator. Since this motor have a DLRK winding, one pole consists of two neighboring stator teeth and the two opposing teeth. I’ve put the sensors between the teeth where the cables come in. You can look at this post for some pictures:

      For the sensors I have 5 wires, red, black, green, blue and yellow. Red and black goes to all three sensors GND and Vcc pins. Green, blue and yellow goes one to each sensors Out port.
      Wiring diagram for hall sensors

      It’s also important that you mount all sensors in the same direction, I mounted them with the text facing outwards.

      1. Thaks a million man, I ordered the sensors and will install them asap. I will keep you updated…………..

  2. Hi,
    Congratulations your project was wonderful.
    How many Kw RPM and has this engine?
    thank you


  3. Hello I like your project very much,.. I would like to build one myself.
    If you would be kind enough to share some info.
    I would to know:
    -witch controller are you using
    -witch battery
    -and some pictures of how you mounted motor with your gear ratio,..
    Thank you very much
    Marjan from SLO

    1. The controller is bought from Lyen at the endless-sphere forum, batteries are from Hobbyking. I’ll see if I have any pictures on the mounting.

  4. Hi
    C80100, I want to create for 1 second 25Nm torque (without gearing, enough cooling).
    Can this, the motor.
    how much volt how many amps ?
    Many Thanks

  5. Hi Folks!
    I want to drive a BLDC, specifications of my BLDC motor are:

    — Out runner.
    — 12 pole winding and 8 pole magnets. Means 4 electrical cycles = 1 mechanical cycle.
    — 12 Volts 2.5 – 3 A Ratting (Ratted at 330 Rpm with Ratted Load)
    — Winding is 3 phase Y connection (Star) with 3 hall effect sensors (60 degrees apart).

    The things that interests me is winding technique used in this motor which is quite different to the literature available on internet.
    Assume 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11 and 12 are winding poles numbering. four numbers share same winding. {1,4,7,10} 1 being the start (Lets call it “S1”) and 10 being the common end for Y connection, {12,3,6,9} 12 being the start (Lets call it “S2”) and 9 being the common end for Y connection, {11,2,5,8} 11 being the start (Lets call it “S3”) and 8 being the common end for Y connection.
    You must be thinking what is different in this, it is same as a three phase winding of BLDC should be. The difference is that each winding clockwise wound. Means 1,2,3……..,11,12 are all clockwise wound.

    Normally if 1 winding number is clockwise then 4 should be anticlockwise and 7 CW and then 10 ACW. But that is not the case.

    Please need your suggestions that how can I start with making a driver for this kind of motor.


    1. One common way of describing windings is to call the phases A, B and C. Use upper case as clockwise and lower case as counter clockwise. A dlrk-windning as the one I use on the Turnigy could then be written AabBCcaABbcC.

      The easiest way of finding the most efficient way to drive a specific motor is to connect the three phases to an oscilloscope and spin the motor by hand. The shape of the back-EMF voltage waveform will be proportional to the flux linkage between your magnets and your phase winding. For an efficient (and quiet) drive the phase current should follow the flux linkage.

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